Feierabend! A busy weekday is coming to an end, and Hauptbahnhof is becoming crowded with tired Berliners: businessmen with briefcases heading home after a long day at work, groups of schoolgirls huddled up on benches apathetically scrolling on TikTok, and exhausted travelers searching for the S-Bahn that will finally take them to their accommodation.
The night is just about to begin
For some, however, the night is just about to begin. You would never guess that just a couple hundred meters away from Central Station, Berlin’s bailarínes are burning up the dance floor to vibrant Latin tracks.
Though dance socials might sound like rather formal events, many people only discover open-airs at Hauptbahnhof through a friend who heard about them from another friend, who might have found out about it through another friend.
Once word had finally reached my social circle, I decided to check out social dancing by the Spree for myself. My friend, who had become a passionate salsera ever since attending these socials, had regularly agreed to be my personal guide for the occasion. Walking across Washingtonplatz, she tells me everything she knows about the origins of the event.
The fiesta never dies
“Dance socials at Hauptbahnhof debuted in the summer of 2022, as Covid restrictions were finally lifted after two years of the pandemic. It started out as a rather unofficial gathering of Latin dance enthusiasts, but has grown to become one of Berlin’s main outdoor dancing events during the spring and summer. Communication between the organizing DJs and participants happens via WhatsApp groups. These chats can be accessed through direct community invitation links, listed publicly on the “Bachata Berlin” Meetup page and the “OPEN AIR SALSA IN BERLIN” Facebook group,” she explains.
“The outdoor social dancing season typically ends in early September, as the breeze that was much appreciated during the summer becomes increasingly brisk. During the fall and winter, the events are moved indoors, to clubs like Soda in Prenzlauer Berg or Tango Loft in Kreuzberg. So the fiesta never dies, but it definitely thrives during the spring and summer.”
The joy that social dancing brings
Crossing the Spree via the Gustav-Heinemann Bridge, we find ourselves on the scenic Ludwig-Erhard-Ufer, a perfect spot for after-work drinks, romantic picnics, or – for the particularly energetic – Latin dance socials. After passing by a couple of bars and people chilling in lounge chairs with sunset spritzes in hand, vibrant instrumental tunes guide us to the epicenter of the happy-hour spirit.
The first group of dancers we encounter resembles a rippling sea. Bachata is a sensual Dominican dance characterized by a close connection between partners, side-to-side steps with hip sways and body rolls. Two large speakers blast Afro-Caribbean beats blended with emotional vocals and guitar-driven melodies.
Just by observing the crowd for a few seconds, we can spot various dance styles, facial expressions and personalities peeking through. Whilst some couples dance with their eyes closed in complete harmony, others are utterly focused on staying in rhythm, or giggling at their failed attempts to synchronize their movements. Though beginners and advanced dancers might experience these events differently, they all seem to share the joy that social dancing brings.
“You have to give up your ego”
As I’m on a mission to get to know this community, I decide to ask participants why they take part in social dancing. Interestingly, there is a strong preference for anonymity among the people I speak to. Many explain that these events are their only opportunity to detach themselves from their everyday responsibilities and work-related identities.
When I ask a middle-aged, elegantly dressed bachatero about what Latin dance means to him, he offers an unexpectedly philosophical response: “Bachata is able to create connections between two people who have never spoken a word to each other. In order for it to flow, you have to give up your ego and get to know the other person, how they move, how they express themselves and how you can make them shine.”
The next participant I approach is wearing baggy sweatpants and a cropped pink T-shirt – creating an amusing contrast with the first interviewee’s appearance. “At first, I was scared I’d embarrass myself as a beginner, but the community here is super welcoming. I only started learning bachata a couple of months ago, but I can feel it becoming a healthy addiction,” says the young French girl with her hands in her pockets. “I’m usually quite shy and stressed when talking to new people. Here, you can either have a dance and move on, or start a conversation without having to break the ice,” she adds.
“Salsa is the cure for my homesickness”
The social aspect of these dance sessions seems to be a common attraction. An elderly woman wearing a bright red dress and heels explains: “When I first became a pensioner, I was going crazy and had no idea what to do with my time. It can get lonely and depressing very quickly, especially with the family living out of town. So, I could either become miserable or take the plunge and do something new. Dancing with young people lights up my heart and is much more enjoyable exercise than seniors’ step aerobics.”
A few meters away from the bachata crowd, fast-paced steps, elaborate turns and playful improvisations dominate the dance floor. Originating in New York’s Latin American communities, salsa combines Afro-Cuban dance styles like son and mambo with jazz influences. The distinct clave beat, percussion, syncopated piano patterns and brassy horn sections make salsa music infectiously cheerful and energizing.
In this group, it is more common to see participants taking breaks by the riverside to catch their breath after dancing through multiple songs. These pauses are perfect opportunities to get inspired by others’ moves, chat with the people around you or simply enjoy the sight of strangers dancing the night away together.
“Salsa is the cure for my homesickness. It embodies everything I miss from back home: spontaneity, warmth, playfulness. I’d like to invite anyone who still thinks that Berlin has to be cold and gloomy to come here,” says a young Colombian salsero with an unwavering smile and sweat dripping from his forehead.
Turning strangers into compañeros
Though salsa may require a certain level of musicality and coordination, the active focus on the next movement and connecting with the music is what makes this dance therapeutic, even meditative for some: “Coming here has become my post-work routine. I’m a psychotherapist and usually spend my days sitting on a couch listening to patients. Here, I can finally move my body and activate a part of my brain I don’t usually engage at work. Concentrating on where to put which foot next instead of analyzing someone else’s psyche has been wonderfully refreshing,” says a tall German gentleman with glasses and flashy sneakers, as he continues to perform the basic salsa step while responding.
Social dancing can also be a valuable tool for self-discovery. “After high school, I started out with a major everybody told me to choose, and hated it. Once I dropped out of that program, I asked myself for the first time what I actually enjoy doing and what kind of person I want to become. Taking up salsa was far out of my comfort zone at first, but it has slowly brought out a more confident, cheerful side of me I didn’t know I had,” explains a young salsera, wearing red lipstick and a denim skirt, waving hello to her arriving friends as she speaks. “I highly recommend that everyone try something that sounds crazy but intriguing to them during their lifetime, and who knows – it might just become a passion,” she adds with a wink.
People’s motives for social dancing range from getting exercise and forming new relationships to simply escaping the world of work and personal responsibilities for a moment. Hence, this community perfectly exemplifies what many consider to be the essence of Berlin: diversity. Pensioners and students, hippies and hipsters, beginners and professionals, Berliners and tourists, sweatpants enthusiasts and cocktail-dress wearers – seen from above, this bunch may resemble a kaleidoscope made with randomly assorted beads. But though many of these people might seem like they don’t have a lot in common, it apparently suffices to share a love of a Latin fiesta to turn strangers into compañeros.
(Header image: © Kyle Hinkson | Unsplash)
